Приведу здесь цитату из отзыва о камере от человека, который год ее использовал. Общие впечатления и очень полезные советы. Сразу извиняюсь за то, что нет желания и времени писать перевод. Но чтобы не потерялось
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4444579
Build Quality
The Z6 is an amphibious tank. It's solid and really well built overall.
However, there are a few wear items. One is the rubber near Fn1 / Fn2. A second is the rubber cup around the eyepiece.
User experience, Controls, Handling & Ergonomics
Overall, great.
Good:
Feels great in the hand, but you may want some extra pinky support. Make sure you get a base plate if you tripod a lot. My preferred option was the Smallrig.
Buttons are also fairly customizable to make it work for you.
i-menu is great.
In-camera charging through USB-C!!!
Viewfinder, Stills: clear, low lag viewfinder. I've measured the lag at somewhere around 70ms (14-bit) to 30ms (12-bit). The viewfinder gets noticeably smoother while holding AF-On--it seems like the sensor goes from 24FPS to 60 or 120 FPS.
Viewfinder, Video:
there is some lag / latency , but it's still very usable. Especially with zebras & focus peaking.
Super fast FPS
Bad:
The drive mode dial is missing. Please contact the authorities if you find it.
The camera needs 1-2 more buttons. Example: Without the dedicated AF/MF button, you'll have to assign one. In stills, I use Fn2, because it's comfortable to use with both dials (ring + thumb + index). Unfortunately, in video, I use Fn1/Fn2 for exposure compensation (which, btw, is a great feature)--but that means my autofocus mode is relegated to the i-menu in video.
Also, this is my first Nikon where the EC button only does one thing: change EC. On my DSLRs, the EC button changes EC (rear dial) or metering mode (front dial). Having one button where both dials do the same thing is a waste of a button. Another i-menu item.
Subject tracking is too many button presses to use in practice (more on this later).
Viewfinder customization is available, but limited. For me, this mainly affects video. For example, no ability to customize framelines for various aspect ratios.
Drive mode setting can't be saved to U1/U2/U3.
Needs a bigger buffer. Current buffer size is good and usually enough though.
Stills & Video Image Quality
Stills: Does this really need to be covered nowadays? Image quality is superb, as would be expected from a full-frame sensor in 2019.
Video: Brilliant. You might read specs that the Z6 only does 8-bit internal. Unless you're specifically doing pro video, this doesn't matter in many cases because Nikon gives us a secret weapon: Picture Controls. If you want to grade video later, make yourself
a log profile, and you'll see just how much room you have. You probably won't miss 10-bit, pre-built log, or raw.
You can get stunning, full-frame 4k video internally from the Z6 if you know what you're doing.
IBIS (матричный стабилизатор)
Great for stills
OK for video. Better than nothing, but nowhere near gimbal-like. The IBIS can be jerky, and it's obviously optimized for stills.
Portability
Very good for what this camera is. You won't be squeezing this into a pocket, but it takes up significantly less room than my DSLRs in a bag.
Autofocus
Well, here it is. The biggest controversy.
Let's start with the TLDR; the autofocus is generally very good. This is a complex topic, so I'll subdivide it.
Accuracy. Perfect. Nails it.
Speed. Generally very fast, but is variable. On high-contrast subjects with vertical detail, AF works pretty flawlessly. As contrast decreases or only exists as horizontal detail, the Z starts to act up. Most of the time, it still works well; but other times, it gets obviously confused.
AF-C. Generally works well. Really depends on your mode, the subject, and settings. For example, remember that for dynamic area, you have to start with the subject in the center box of the AF grid. If you want it to stick to the subject better, slow down the refocusing time setting (ironically). Wide area works well, but sometimes hesitates to even start focusing.
Subject recognition. The only subjects the Z6 can detect as of now are faces and eyes. But it does so very well.
Tracking. The camera technically has tracking, but the UI is so bad that you can't use it. If you ever come across the impossible scenario where you have plenty of time to push many buttons to maintain tracking on a moving target, then the tracking actually works great at following your subject around the frame.
In the dark. Depends on the mode & settings, but can really focus well, especially if you have a bit of time.
Lenses
The Z lenses are brilliant. My most used are 14-30, 35 (and recently, 85). Weird, since everyone else seems to love the 24-70/4 and 50.
Most F lenses work like native lenses. In fact, my F lenses work better on my Z6 than on my F cameras. So the Z6 is pretty much a Z & F camera.
There are now many adapters for many different mounts, with various performance implications.
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Дополнение: подробно о фокусировке =========================
CDAF - контрастный АФ
PDAF - фазовый АФ
I'll cover my observations in the AF Areas rather than modes, since the modes like AF-S & AF-C are easy.
Pinpoint:
This forces CDAF (a good thing for accuracy), and is great for when you have time to set up the shot. Great example: Landscapes, or posed portraits where you want tack-sharp eyes.
Single Point:
Will use best-available method (PDAF or CDAF). The camera seems to decide which to use based on what is under the AF point at the time you initiate focus. This seems true for all modes. Low contrast subjects attempt CDAF, while high contrast subjects--especially vertical--use PDAF.
The difference between this and pinpoint really boils down to speed--both speed of using it (since there are fewer & larger points) and sometimes performance (PDAF).
Dynamic Area:
To use this properly, you have to make sure the subject is under the center AF box when you begin focus. Then, as long as the subject stays in the greater 9-point area, the camera will attempt to maintain focus on this subject. Also, seems to PDAF.
Be careful though--the moment the subject leaves the precise perimeter of the 9-point area, the camera says "uh oh. I need to find a new subject." This is where setting a3 (Focus Tracking with Lock-On) comes into play. If you want to tell the camera not to jump to a new subject immediately, set this to delayed. A value of 1 (Quick) means "just refocus instantly," while 5 (Delayed) means: "Give me about 1 second to get the subject back into the 9-point area before you pick a new subject."
The irony often lost is that setting a longer delay may help you keep focus on your intended subject better. I keep mine at 5. If I want to refocus on a new subject (or after I lost my subject), I just let go of AF-On and press it again in a split second. Remember, this is AF-C, so this setting does not affect how quickly the focus keeps up with your subject. Instead, setting a3 tells the camera how quickly to
forget your subject.
This might be the single most misunderstood mode and setting. When you hear about the camera refocusing on the background, this is usually the cause. And depending on your DOF, once the camera goes to the background, the foreground may be so blurry that it's outside the threshold of the PDAF. But usually, recentering the subject on the center box gets you back on track.
Wide area small, Wide area large, & Auto Area:
These are all the same thing, covering different areas.
They work well. The camera picks the subject you think it wants, anywhere within the area. It seems to prefer closer subjects, unlike Dynamic area, which has no preference and just does what you tell it to do.
To be clear, Dynamic area focuses on what you told it to focus on in the center box regardless of distance, while these auto-area modes tend to pick the closest subject in the area.
Ultimately, if you notice that you are having a tough time maintaining dynamic area or focus moves to the background frequently, try one of these modes instead. You may be pleasantly surprised. Of course, you have less control over the precise subject...but that's why you limit the area.
Be aware: occasionally (fairly rarely) wide-area just doesn't make an effort. You try to focus and it just sits there, quietly thinking with cold, dark eyes. Careful: it may be contemplating its origins and slowly becoming self-aware, ready to enslave or eradicate its human overlords.
And then obviously, you've got face detect & eye detect in auto-area. Face & eye detection is something you should have learned about as a baby, so it's not worth going into detail over.
Subject Tracking:
This really shouldn't be used under any circumstances. But I feel obligated to cover it.
First, lets start with this: tracking should be its own AF Area mode, not a sub-mode underneath Auto-area. It makes absolutely no sense to put this under auto-area. Nikon probably
buried it here so nobody would use it . Nikon just
ripped it straight out of their Coolpix line of cameras.
So how does it work? From Auto-Area mode, press OK to enter the dark chambers of Subject Tracking. You will be greeted with a message: "Abandon hope all ye who enter here." Press OK
again to accept and begin tracking over the subject. As the subject moves around the frame, the box will follow the subject. This tracking around the frame actually works surprisingly well...
But be careful. Because it won't actually autofocus yet, because you obviously didn't separately tell it to, silly billy! The yellow box is there to tell you: "if you hypothetically wanted to autofocus, here's where I would focus." This is useful information apparently. So then, press AF-On or half-press shutter to focus there. It works ok.
But like all tracking on every camera ever, it will eventually lose the subject. This is a normal part of life. What is not normal is how to remedy this. On Nikon's DSLR 3D tracking, you would just let go AF-On, recompose, and press/hold AF-On again. But this is not Nikon's 3D tracking.
Here, you have to let go of AF-On, and then press the OK button again to stop tracking. To begin again, you can either press the OK button again or just hold AF-On. And herein lies the crux of the issue: You are using tracking presumably because the subject is moving. (Being a mirrorless, there really is no point to focus & recompose). So while this subject is moving, Nikon assumes you have time to press all of these extra buttons?
The main reason people think the subject tracking performs worse on the Z6 is because on DSLRs, you constantly, instantly, and intuitively restart tracking all the time as you lose the subject. You don't hold tracking for minutes at a time--you hold it for a few seconds. But this "restart tracking" is just not possible to do on the Z6 due to all of the extra button presses.
Anyways, when you're done playing with Nikon's tracking (because playing around is the only purpose of tracking today on the Z6), then you can press Zoom Out to exit subject tracking and get back to Auto-Area mode.
Long read, but hope this helps. Unless you abandoned hope when you entered subject tracking.
============= Еще раз про
tracking ===================
And sorry, but you are incorrect. You are correct that you do not have to press the OK button a second time (you can instead just press AF-On), but it does not work like a DSLR after that.
Because as I mentioned, on a DSLR, when you let go of AF-On, the camera stops tracking. The camera couples tracking to focusing so it tracks while you focus, and only while you focus.
On the Z6, when you let go of AF-On, the camera continues tracking, until you press OK again. Tracking and autofocus are decoupled.
So there is an OK press every time you want to re-initiate subject tracking on the Z, while there isn't on the 3D Tracking of DSLRs. When these are sub-second operations, the extra movement of thumb to press OK and then back to AF-On to autofocus is significant.
Big difference.
С точки зрения же банальной эрудиции, датчикам фиолетово перпендикулярна или не перпендикулярна матрица оси объектива. Фаза- она и в Африке фаза. А фокусировка все равно идет не по всем точкам. Да и не думаю, чтобы смещение было большим. Иначе в принципе, невозможно было бы получить снимок, резкий по всему кадру.